A Southern Gal's Take on Greens
by Prof. Anya Chutney

"But I have never tasted meat,
Nor cabbage, corn nor beans,
Nor fluid food on half as sweet
As that first mess of greens."

--James T. Cotton Now (1869-1953), American writer and poet, from the Loom of Life, 1912.
Ah, yes... that first mess of greens. There is nothing like it to the palate of a girl from the Southern USA. What is a "mess of greens," you ask? Sounds like a party gone wrong on St. Patrick's Day, doesn't it?

I am talking, of course, about Collards. If you aren't from the Southern USA, you may have no clue what I’m going on about.

Greens are any sort of cabbage in which the green leaves do not form a compact head. In fact, the Collard (which is a close relative to kale) is one of the most primitive members of the cabbage group. It has remained basically the same for the past 2,000 years. Collards are part of the cabbage family, thus their name has evolved from the Anglo-Saxon coleworts or colewyrts and translates as "cabbage plants."

We also know that the Romans were quite fond of collards and cultivated about 400 cabbage varieties including heading cabbages, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi, cauliflower, and kale.

Collards also turned up in Germany, France, and Great Britain via travels of the Romans or possibly the Saxons. British colonists also brought the seeds of many vegetables, including collards, when they began to settle in Southern North America in the mid to late 1600s.

But, how do you cook collards? Typically, you wash them well, take out the tough middle vein of the leaf, chop them, put them in a bit of water with salt, and throw in a ham hock or salt pork and slow cook them until they are soft. The size of the "mess" just depends on how many you are cooking for!

Fresh cornbread is usually served to "sop" up the pot likker (or vitamin-filled juices left over from the cooking).

So, I've told you how to cook them and what their roots are--but, are they good for anything else? How about medicinal uses?

It is said that Southerners chase away a headache by placing a fresh collard leaf on their forehead. Although, I can assure you that I have lived in the Southern USA my entire life and have never seen anyone with a collard leaf on their forehead. Of course, people may do this in their own homes--I've never thought to ask!

It is also reported that Julius Caesar ate a hearty serving of collards as a preventive to indigestion after attending royal banquets, a testimony to their detoxifying abilities.

Southern legend also says that hanging a fresh collard leaf over your door will ensure that evil spirits will not enter. Apparently garlic needs a bit of leafy help in the south! I've never seen a vampire run screaming from a Collard leaf--but, you never know, I guess! It is also said that you must eat collards served with hoppin' john (black eyed-peas and rice) on New Year's Day. This meal will ensure a year of good luck and financial reward (thus the green leaf to symbolize money!).

Most of you probably have never had the chance to try collards. So, if you are ever in the Southern USA, see if you can't find some at a restaurant. Or, come on by my house and I'll cook you up a mess. I might even be persuaded to cook you some cornbread, too.